Above: Some of our puppies grown up.
PLEASE REVIEW THE INFORMATION BELOW BEFORE CONTACTING ME ABOUT A PUPPY OR TO BE PUT ON A WAITING LIST. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE TIME TO DO THIS THEN YOU PROBABLY DON'T HAVE TIME FOR A BORDER COLLIE PUPPY.
Bellaclan puppies are raised from birth to be enrichment seekers who enjoy challenges and are ready to take on all of life's adventures. They are thinkers and you should be ready to continue giving them all the enrichment and stimulation they have come to expect from birth. It has been scientifically proven that animals raised in an enriched environment have larger brains, are easier to train, and more emotionally stable. I put my puppies through a structured program called the 'Puppy Culture Protocol' where they get as much appropriate stimulation, training, and socialization as possible. We encourage all our future owners to purchase and watch these videos prior to their new puppies arrival. The link to purchase these videos along with a list of recommended products are located above on my "Puppy Shopping List". These are hand picked items I use daily myself!
I generally breed one to four litters per year when I am looking to breed a show prospect for myself. I often have pups available from these litters to loving pet and performance homes who I carefully screen. At rare times, show prospects are available to top notch, serious, show homes in co-ownership and on private treaty. Show owners need to have the same goals and be on the same page as me as I work closely as a team with my owners to protect my lines, and the lines that have been shared with me from other breeders.
I aim to breed dogs who are very sound tempered, and healthy. I place pet pups based on temperaments first and foremost. I only breed dogs that have sound temperaments to ensure that the pups I produce will have outstanding temperaments themselves as I believe half a dogs temperament is genetic and the other half is what the breeder and new owners do to shape that dogs personality. Like human babies, neonates (newborn) and infant dogs go through many stages of development and we use science based rearing methods to ensure that we give our pups the highest chance at being well adjusted adult dogs. If you would like to know what we do with our puppies on a weekly basis, CLICK HERE!
0-1 week - We basically camp out next to the whelping box and watch the pups every move to ensure that the pups are hydrated, gaining weight, and getting their fair share of meals. By day three we start ENS (Early Neurological Stimulation).
1-2 Week - We start to introduce different feelings, the vibration of the clippers, different scents, place them on different textures for a short period and continue the ENS until day sixteen. They also receive their first de-worming medication. Pups start to interact with each other and become mobile. They have their nails trimmed for the first time.
2-3 Weeks - We encourage mom to leave them for a few minutes per day and get some fresh air. This is when socialization truly starts! We use the Puppy Culture Socialization Program (Communication, Emotional Stability, Habituation, Enrichment, Health, Skills, Love). New toys introduced each day. Litter box is introduced. Weaning starts by their mother. We handle them frequently. We startle them frequently to practise their recovery.
3-4 Weeks - They start eating their first meals. We start with clicker training, "power up". We provide new enrichment activities every day. We take them away from littermates for short periods of time. They get moved to a bigger puppy area. Communication trinity. Manding starts through classical conditioning. We start the box clicker game to learn and problem solve. We start barrier feeding challenges. Continue with heavy socialization. Go for their first car rides.
4-5 Weeks - Start of sensitive period and imprinting period (single event learning) and startle response. Continue short learning sessions but avoid all severe fearful situations, ensure all good experiences. Start wobble boards. 6 min training sessions with at least 30 min naps between. Make pups feel safe during this period. We fill their lives with a bunch of good experiences, and repeated "startle and recovery" exercises. We focus on any pups who are showing stronger fear towards new things.
5-6 Weeks - Socialization, Socialization, Socialization. Teach the pups to form emotional reactions. Low fear period allows us to expose them to a lot of positive socialization. We start introducing them to many surfaces and equipment, max 6 min training at a time, 15 min. apart. BAER hearing testing or CAER eye testing is done at this age, if needed.
6-7 Weeks - We start practicing the resource guarding trade off game. Start body handling exercises. We normally book their first vet examination. Calmness is a behaviour that needs to be trained. We start more crate training and crate games. We do a lot of body handling (holding and squeezing paws, body hugs, vet holds, grooming regime) and we offer rewards to the pups for this. We start to measure temperament traits. We start putting collars on them to get them used to it and start off leash and recall training.
7-8 weeks - Fear period. We keep everything stable and start getting them ready to go to new homes. We work on any challenges seen in any of the pups but keep everything consistent. As long as they are showing no fear we try to get them out on car rides and continue socialization. We continue recall training and off-leash healing basics and start adding a leash. Depending on their mental state we allow them to go home between 8-10 weeks of age.
I do not place pups based on looks alone and do not place pups based on first come first serve. I do not allow owners to choose a puppy based on a cute photo or one meeting which will not allow for proper temperament evaluation. I match pups to their new owners lifestyle and aim for a forever home for my pups. I require all my owners to attend two full sets of obedience classes with their puppy, taught by a good reputable trainer, to ensure that each puppy I produce has the best chance to be a good canine citizen. We fully socialize our pups as much as possible while they are with us and expect our owners to continue this for their dogs entire lifetime. I will let you know which puppy is yours between 7-10 weeks of age and pups go home at a minimum of eight weeks of age.
Before breeding, the Sire (dad) and Dam (mom) of my litters are OFA hip and elbow tested, BAER hearing tested, CAER eye tested, DNA tested for CEA, CL, TNS and many other genetic illness offered on a canine DNA panel. I vaccinate according to a Nomograph, done through CAVIDS in the USA, to ensure proper protection and less chance of vaccination reaction/over vaccination. This allows us to ensure that we vaccinate at the right time to provide our pups with seamless protection and I give detailed instructions on how to continue this to both my new owners and their vets. I feed all my dogs and pups a fresh RAW (uncooked) diet. I prefer that future owners continue feeding this diet. You will find that house training is much easier if the pups are fed this way!
Your AKC registration will arrive in your mailbox from the AKC a few weeks after your pup is home. Pet quality puppies come with AKC limited registration (not for breeding) transferred into your name and mailed to you. I require owners to have pet pups spayed/neutered between 12-18 months of age as agreed upon on the contract, failure to do so will void your pups genetic health warranty. Show prospects (not spayed/neutered) puppies come with AKC full registration and are placed in co-ownership between us and the new owners. There is no price difference between show and pet quality puppies as each of our puppies receives the exact same amount of our time, training, love, and attention. All pups are priced at $2500. This is in US funds if the dog is exported to anywhere outside of Canada. I reserve the right to raise this price for a pup resulting from frozen semen or from a litter resulting in a c-section as our costs increase significantly in these cases. My puppies are not permitted to leave my possession until I have a signed contract between myself and the new owners which outlines the terms of sale, which protects the puppy over it's lifetime, prevents irreplaceable damages to my lines that we have worked years to build, and which also offers you both a short and a long term heath guarantee.
My puppies go home with the following:
An ISO Trovan microchip implanted, registered to both me (as the breeder) and to the new owners, so that I can ensure that the puppy will always find it's way home or to me.
A veterinarian examination along with a health certificate signed by our veterinarian.
Vaccinations given in accordance with the CAVIDS nomograph recommendations.
Access to my VIP Owners section on this website.
A puppy package containing a diet sheet, letter for your vet, copies of de-worming records, vaccinations records, and possible CAER or BAER testing.
Your puppy comes with six weeks of complementary health insurance from Pets + Us and we strongly suggest that you continue this coverage!
Last but certainly not least, your pup comes with support from me FOR LIFE, this means you can call me anytime for help with your pup for their entire lives. I want to be certain that both the owners and my pups live a happy life together.
We do NOT allow people to visit puppies until they are being picked up due to the possibility of parvovirus being tracked into our home. Parvo is a highly contagious virus which can be transmitted by direct contact through the nose and mouth with infected poop, which can happen when a dog sniffs or licks a surface or another dog that has been contaminated with feces, or when a puppy comes into contact with a contaminated person, object, or environment. The virus can survive on clothing, equipment, shoes, car tires, and on human skin. Parvo can survive indoors at room temperature for at least two months and is resistant to many commonly used cleaners and disinfectants. Outdoors, the parvovirus can survive for months, and even years, if protected from direct sunlight and reinfect dogs and puppies, young dogs under 5 weeks rarely survive. We would be happy to send you many pictures and videos but we are not willing to risk our pups lives!
We use the most modern technology to ensure the safety of our girls during pregnancy and labour, our girls wellbeing is always the number one priority. Most of our girls don't have more than three litters in their lives, at odd times they have four, and then earn their place on the sofa getting to be a dog! We have our own progesterone and ultrasound machine here at home, and work closely with our vets in case we need their assistance. We were trained by our vets to both tube feed pups who need it and give subQ fluids to pups at the first sign of dehydration. Pups are born in their own nursery, equipped with a large 8' x 4' custom made whelping box, located across the hall from our own rooms. We have a webcam streaming to an iPad beside our beds and to our iPhones 24/7 a day. We have someone home nearly full time from the litters birth till they go to their new homes.
Shipping (flying a puppy to it's new home via. cargo) is available for pet quality puppies within the USA and Canada. We are only willing to ship show quality puppies outside of North America, a boarding fee applies to any of these puppies who we musk keep and train longer prior to them arriving to their new show homes. We prefer direct flights if at all possible. We do our best to crate train all pups who will be shipped, in advanced. The cost of shipping and all our expenses, and most of the foot work in order to plan the flights, is the responsibility of the new owners, though we will offer help when needed. If possible we do prefer that the new owner fly here and pick their puppy up and take the puppy back with them on the plane, in cabin, whilst they are small enough to still fit under the seat. I have had no issues in 20 years shipping multiple puppies and adult dogs all over the globe!
HOW TO GET A PUPPY FROM ME:
I keep a waiting list of approved homes well in advanced and most of my pups are spoken for at birth.
To be added to the list:
1. Please review this entire page and my contract, and then fill out a puppy application
2. I will call you as I want to get to know you, and give us both the chance to ask each other questions. If you do not get a call or an email back from me please contact me!
3. If you are approved I will add you to my waiting list.
4. I then let you know when a litter is born with availability, and invite you to place a $500 deposit on a puppy at that time, no puppy is held for any amount of time without a deposit and if I don't hear back from you in 3 days I will contact the next person on the list. All deposits must be accompanied by a signed deposit agreement.
I am happy to answer any questions that you might have AFTER you have fully reviewed this entire page! You may text/call or email me.